After a Wagner overload at the opulent annual festival devoted to the composer in Bayreuth, Germany, it was good to come to Busseto, Italy, for a little Verdi appreciation.
In the year celebrating the 200th birthday of both musical geniuses, it seemed fitting to visit these two towns intimately associated with them.
It turned out, however, that the contrast between Bayreuth and Busseto couldn’t have been more striking.
Bayreuth was the baroque court of a minor German prince, the Margrave of Bayreuth, and still feels like it.
Little Busseto is a market town with one main street and a square.
Whereas Wagner came to Bayreuth at the peak of his fame to build an opera house in his own honor, Verdi came to Busseto as a talented but penniless boy.
The Italian composer had walked there from nearby Le Roncole, the village of his birth, because a local music lover had a piano that Verdi had been invited to play.
Busseto as it appeared in Verdi’s day. Aside from some urban sprawl, the town has changed little.
Renaissance revisited
Apart from some urban sprawl on its outskirts, Busseto today looks remarkably the same as when Giuseppe Verdi arrived in 1824.
Its low defensive walls and gates are gone, but its streets follow the same Renaissance grid.
There are some big houses and even a palazzo or two, but these are discreetly hidden behind colonnades that line Via Roma, the main street.
The only ostentatiously impressive building is the 16th-century Palazzo Pallavincino, with its moat and baroque gatehouse, lying halfway between the railway station and the town proper.
The ancient family of Pallavincino held the old castle in Busseto (it now contains an opera house) but in the 18th century they moved out here, to moated splendor beyond the defensive walls.
Whether its former occupants would have appreciated the irony is uncertain, but the mighty Pallavincinos’ palace is now a museum (Via Ferdinando Provesi 35; + 39 0524 930 039) devoted to Verdi, an innkeeper’s son.
Halfway along Via Roma on the stands Palazzo Orlandi, where Verdi composed his opera “Rigoletto.” A big sign on the doors reads “Vendesi.” (For sale)
Palazzo Orlandi, where Verdi composed “Rigoletto;” locals say it’s falling apart.The locals lament that you can’t even go in to look around; some claim it’s falling apart.
Given that Verdi came back to live here after the success of his breakthrough opera “Nabucco,” it’s a shame not more is made of the house.
On the town square, it’s a different story. Casa Barezzi is where the young Verdi came to play music.
Today his piano overlooks Piazza Verdi.
It was here that the lanky, dark-haired 17-year-old gave his first public performance, in 1830.
Antonio Barezzi, a wealthy merchant, not only was Verdi’s first patron but also soon became his father-in-law when his daughter fell in love with the young musician.
Today just the main salon of Casa Barezzi (Via Roma 119; +39 0524 931 117) has been restored by the “Amici di Verdi.” I walked up steps to the first floor to pay the €2 entry fee.
The salon is lofty and spacious for such a small town. Had the adolescent Verdi ever seen anything as grand?
The adjoining rooms are taken up with display cases full of drawings, paintings and photographs of Verdi. There’s a fascinating display of portraits of nearly every singer who played a major operatic Verdi role.
Another section commemorates conductors who have performed at Busseto’s Teatro Verdi (Piazza Giuseppe Verdi 10; +39 0524 92487) with the batons they’ve donated. Placido Domingo has pride of place.
Theater of honor
In 1868, to honor the man they were calling the “Swan of Busseto,” the people of his hometown didn’t just rename their theater after Verdi, they tore it apart and rebuilt it in a much more opulent style, with a royal box, smoking room and private salon where sopranos could serenade affluent gentlemen from a high balcony.
A mythological ceiling was painted in the auditorium with a cherub holding up the word “Verdi” to the Muse of Music.
Verdi was said to have been furious when he heard that the building he had loved was being destroyed in his name, but in the end he gave money to help complete the project.
Mask of genius … a production of Verdi’s opera “Rigoletto,” a story of love, revenge and sacrifice.The auditorium is a lovely, delicate red and white structure of boxes on three tiers.
Franco Zeffirelli staged “Aida” here in 2001 to mark the centenary of Verdi’s death.
The production is still talked about in the town because of the way Zeffirelli transcended the restrictions of the tiny stage.
I spent the night in a hotel (next to the old castle) built in 1999 by the great tenor Carlo Bergonzi when he retired to Busseto. He named it “I Due Foscari” (Piazza Carlo Rossi 15; + 39 0524 930039; rooms from €86/$114) after one of the operas that gave Verdi his name.
Resembling a dark palazzo on the Grand Canal, the hotel is now run by Bergonzi’s son, Marco. There are pictures of Verdi on every wall, even in my bedroom.
There had been high hopes for the bicentenary this autumn, but while I was in Busseto plans were floundering. Italy’s recent economic problems mean there’s no money to mount a suitable production in October.
At the moment it sounds as if only Wagner will be making a big noise in 2013.
Where to stay in Busseto
Hotel Ristorante Bar Bistrot Sole, Piazza Giacomo Matteotti 10; +39 (0) 524 930 011; rooms from €90 ($120)
Agriturismo Il Bosso, Via Traversante Passera 1, Busseto; +39 (0) 338 5967 038; rooms from €60 ($80)
Where to eat in Busseto
Trattoria Verdi, Viale Pallavicino, 21; +39 (0) 524 91610/91352; modern bar/trattoria
Cafè Pizzosteria Palazzo Orlandi, Via Roma, 60; +39 (0 )524 91523; snack bar beneath palazzo where Verdi lived
Ristorante La Casa Nuova, 59 v. Consolatico Superiore; +39 (0) 524 97817; rural fare
Salumeria Sapori Della Bassa Di Belli Maria Cristin, Via Balestra 2; +39 (0) 524 931133; delicatessen near church where Verdi was married
Salsamenteria Storica Verdiana Baratta, Via Roma 76; +39 (0) 524 91066; Verdi-themed delicatessen
Source Article from http://travel.cnn.com/verdi-exploring-italian-hometown-musical-genius-855186
August 20, 2013 at 8:46 pm
I am having the hardest time finding Lyrics to Giuseppe Verdi’s version of Ave Maria, is it the same as all the other versions, if not whats the difference and where can i find the proper documentation of the lyrics. I dont speek italian so i really dont know.
August 26, 2013 at 12:56 pm
I have a final exam for my Music class tomorrow morning and I have one question left that I can’t find the answer to. I need 2 things, one personal, the other professional, that make it surprising that Verdi would compose a Requiem. Please help!!!
August 29, 2013 at 8:00 am
Giuseppe Verdi – “Don Carlos” Grand-opéra in five acts; after Friedrich Schiller’s drama “Don Carlo, Infant von Spanien”. First performance: Paris, Opéra, 11th March 1867. The action takes place in France and Spain around the year 1560
ACT ONE (taken out in 1883 because it was too similar to the older Lucifer taking the younger Eve away from her intended spouse Adam) Elisabeth of Valois, daughter of Henry II of France, meets Don Carlos, son of the Philip II of Spain. The young prince and princess, who have never seen each other before, know their wedding will seal the peace between the two nations. Don Carlos hid in the woods to see the princess pass. When Elisabeth finally arrives, it is love at first sight. The two tease one another happily about their lot and their forthcoming wedding, when the cannon is fired, indicating that the peace treaty has been signed. Shortly afterwards the page boy runs up and kneels in front of Elisabeth, addressing her as Queen of Spain. He explains that the plans have been changed and she will be married to the older king Philip II instead. Amid the general celebration the two youngsters separate, torn apart.
Thanks for that Wikipedia link “TurtleFromQuebec” I wonder if this first part was also taken out of Schiller’s drama as well? Verdi revised his opera quite a bit to make it shorter and for audience appeal.
List is at the Wikipedia article
Pre-première cuts – Verdi made a number of cuts in 1866, after finishing the opera but before composing the ballet, simply because the work was becoming too long.
August 29, 2013 at 9:24 am
Giuseppe Verdi – “Don Carlos” Grand-opéra in five acts; after Friedrich Schiller’s drama “Don Carlo, Infant von Spanien”. First performance: Paris, Opéra, 11th March 1867. The action takes place in France and Spain around the year 1560
ACT ONE (taken out in 1883 because it was too similar to the older Lucifer taking the younger Eve away from her intended spouse Adam) Elisabeth of Valois, daughter of Henry II of France, meets Don Carlos, son of the Philip II of Spain. The young prince and princess, who have never seen each other before, know their wedding will seal the peace between the two nations. Don Carlos hid in the woods to see the princess pass. When Elisabeth finally arrives, it is love at first sight. The two tease one another happily about their lot and their forthcoming wedding, when the cannon is fired, indicating that the peace treaty has been signed. Shortly afterwards the page boy runs up and kneels in front of Elisabeth, addressing her as Queen of Spain. He explains that the plans have been changed and she will be married to the older king Philip II instead. Amid the general celebration the two youngsters separate, torn apart.
Thanks for that Wikipedia link “TurtleFromQuebec” I wonder if this first part was also taken out of Schiller’s drama as well? Verdi revised his opera quite a bit to make it shorter and for audience appeal.
List is at the Wikipedia article
Pre-première cuts – Verdi made a number of cuts in 1866, after finishing the opera but before composing the ballet, simply because the work was becoming too long.
September 3, 2013 at 7:04 pm
I’m a violinist and a big classical music fan, but my “listening repertoire” mainly includes things such as concertos, symphonies, and some solo instrumental works. I recently decided to try to familiarize myself with some opera and other vocal works. Does anyone have any suggestions for music to start off with?
Thanks!
September 21, 2013 at 6:44 pm
I really want to learn how to play this piece, but I can’t seem to find it. It was written by Giuseppe Verdi. Just in case you are not familiar with it, here is a link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGvtByNnwOc
It’s the music in the background. Thanks for the help.
September 23, 2013 at 1:24 am
I have a final exam for my Music class tomorrow morning and I have one question left that I can’t find the answer to. I need 2 things, one personal, the other professional, that make it surprising that Verdi would compose a Requiem. Please help!!!
September 27, 2013 at 3:15 am
I just discovered the i love opera and classical music but im trying to find more singers. i would like to listen to someone that sounds like Giuseppe Verdi but i dont know any to look for. any suggestions?
September 28, 2013 at 11:49 pm
I am having the hardest time finding Lyrics to Giuseppe Verdi’s version of Ave Maria, is it the same as all the other versions, if not whats the difference and where can i find the proper documentation of the lyrics. I dont speek italian so i really dont know.
November 5, 2013 at 1:03 am
I am having the hardest time finding Lyrics to Giuseppe Verdi’s version of Ave Maria, is it the same as all the other versions, if not whats the difference and where can i find the proper documentation of the lyrics. I dont speek italian so i really dont know.
November 6, 2013 at 5:04 am
I have just started using the WordPress CMS. I noticed that some themes display the featured image both, on the front page, and above the content of the post.
The theme I am using (Catch Box) does not display the featured image above the post content on the single post page.
I really need this functionality, can anyone help?
January 16, 2014 at 3:21 pm
I believe that this sentence is correct but I’m not 100% sure. Please help!
Note: The parts if the sentence in brackets are the only parts I can choose from to be incorrect.
Sentence:
In [the encyclopedia article] I consulted, [it said that] the opera composers Richard Wagner and Giuseppe Verdi [were born] in the [same year: 1813].
January 18, 2014 at 5:42 pm
Im writing a story about a boy related to a popular Italian composer. Ive done works by all of these, and i would like to use one of them. Which one should I use?
Alessandro Scarlatti and his sons Domenico Scarlatti & Pietro Filippo Scarlatti-Exultate Deo
Giuseppe Verdi-Va, Pensiero
Giovanni Battista Bononcini-per la gloria d’adorarvi
January 26, 2014 at 9:02 am
I am having the hardest time finding Lyrics to Giuseppe Verdi’s version of Ave Maria, is it the same as all the other versions, if not whats the difference and where can i find the proper documentation of the lyrics. I dont speek italian so i really dont know.
February 6, 2014 at 11:14 am
For my opera class i have to find interesting facts about this conductor.
All i’ve found out everywhere i went was when we was born and died and about his wives and thats about it. I need interesting factssss! helllp!
February 21, 2014 at 9:28 pm
For my orchestra class, we must do a biography on a composer. I chose Giuseppe Verdi, what are some amazing things he has done? Thanks so much!
BONUS QUESTION: What is one dollar in 1800 equivalent to today? (I think it’s 5 dollars but I’m not sure…)
February 22, 2014 at 4:26 am
Does a feature of an organism that is currently used for a certain function mean that the feature evolved for that purpose? How can you tell if a feature of an organism or taxon is an adaptation?
March 15, 2014 at 5:55 pm
I would love if you could include any information you know about his beliefs on the independence of Italy and how he showed it through his music. I also would like to know what were some of his defining moments? Why is/was so popular??
March 19, 2014 at 7:46 pm
i need help to find audio files of Giuseppe Verdi’s choirs/Nebukadnezar opera songs, like Ali Dorate (or something else). can anyone help?
March 25, 2014 at 8:29 am
We know it was wrote by G.Verdi, but what is the story?
April 2, 2014 at 11:39 pm
i need help to find audio files of Giuseppe Verdi’s choirs/Nebukadnezar opera songs, like Ali Dorate (or something else). can anyone help?
April 3, 2014 at 9:27 am
For my opera class i have to find interesting facts about this conductor.
All i’ve found out everywhere i went was when we was born and died and about his wives and thats about it. I need interesting factssss! helllp!
May 5, 2014 at 10:03 pm
What are some Dominican Republic Special Features?
Like volcanoes or ruins etc……..
Hello anybody
May 5, 2014 at 10:05 pm
For my opera class i have to find interesting facts about this conductor.
All i’ve found out everywhere i went was when we was born and died and about his wives and thats about it. I need interesting factssss! helllp!
May 9, 2014 at 11:41 am
i need help to find audio files of Giuseppe Verdi’s choirs/Nebukadnezar opera songs, like Ali Dorate (or something else). can anyone help?
May 10, 2014 at 1:49 am
Please add detail and list some sources where you got the info from. Please and thank you 😀
May 13, 2014 at 5:03 pm
simply what are featured users and how do you nominate someone?
May 15, 2014 at 8:16 am
For my opera class i have to find interesting facts about this conductor.
All i’ve found out everywhere i went was when we was born and died and about his wives and thats about it. I need interesting factssss! helllp!
May 17, 2014 at 8:22 pm
i need help to find audio files of Giuseppe Verdi’s choirs/Nebukadnezar opera songs, like Ali Dorate (or something else). can anyone help?
May 19, 2014 at 12:18 am
What do you think of him as a composer and musician?
What works of him do you like best?
May 22, 2014 at 12:44 pm
i need help to find audio files of Giuseppe Verdi’s choirs/Nebukadnezar opera songs, like Ali Dorate (or something else). can anyone help?
May 28, 2014 at 1:13 am
Is it things like rivers, valleys etc?
And does anyone know what the geographic features are for the Hunter Valley?
May 28, 2014 at 1:14 am
For my opera class i have to find interesting facts about this conductor.
All i’ve found out everywhere i went was when we was born and died and about his wives and thats about it. I need interesting factssss! helllp!
May 28, 2014 at 1:15 am
I need a list of songs that feature T.I. (not his songs, other artists’ songs that he collaborated on).
Please and thank you!
May 28, 2014 at 1:16 am
Does it have radio? What are some of the features it has. & does it still have the some of the features the original iPhone has?
May 28, 2014 at 1:17 am
I psycholinguistic terms (with Hierarchical network model) what does Nested features mean?
May 28, 2014 at 8:19 am
For my orchestra class, we must do a biography on a composer. I chose Giuseppe Verdi, what are some amazing things he has done? Thanks so much!
BONUS QUESTION: What is one dollar in 1800 equivalent to today? (I think it’s 5 dollars but I’m not sure…)
June 1, 2014 at 3:11 pm
feature writing
June 3, 2014 at 11:58 pm
i need help to find audio files of Giuseppe Verdi’s choirs/Nebukadnezar opera songs, like Ali Dorate (or something else). can anyone help?
June 6, 2014 at 6:54 pm
mention ant 4 features of India’s silicon valley?????
June 8, 2014 at 5:11 am
i need help to find audio files of Giuseppe Verdi’s choirs/Nebukadnezar opera songs, like Ali Dorate (or something else). can anyone help?
June 11, 2014 at 9:03 am
Hey guys I was wondering can anyone tell me which are older, homologous or analogous features? Thanks =]
June 11, 2014 at 8:00 pm
For my opera class i have to find interesting facts about this conductor.
All i’ve found out everywhere i went was when we was born and died and about his wives and thats about it. I need interesting factssss! helllp!
June 15, 2014 at 7:05 pm
mention ant 4 features of India’s silicon valley?????